Home Security When You Travel: Using Lights and Timers to Deter Burglars by Simulating Occupancy

Essential Concepts

• Light timers work best when they mimic normal human routines, not when they run on a fixed, repeating schedule.
• Leaving one light on all night can signal an empty home as easily as it can suggest occupancy.
• A realistic pattern usually means multiple lights, varied rooms, and varied on and off times across the evening.
• Outdoor lighting can raise perceived risk of detection, but it is not a guarantee and can be counterproductive if poorly aimed or too predictable. (Office of Justice Programs)
• Timers are a “deterrence and delay” tool, not a standalone security system; physical barriers and basic home readiness still matter. (Springer)
• Safety comes first: match timer load ratings to the electrical load, avoid overheated cords, and choose low-heat lighting where possible.
• Any setup should be tested before departure, including what happens after a power outage and after seasonal time changes.

Background or Introduction

When you travel, an empty home can become a more attractive target for burglary because there is less natural guardianship. In simple terms, guardianship means the ordinary presence and attention that makes offending riskier. Lighting and timer strategies aim to replace some of those visible signs of presence by making the home look lived in during the hours when an empty home stands out most.

This article explains what light-based occupancy simulation can and cannot do, and how to use timers and automated lighting in a way that looks plausible to an observer. It also clarifies common mistakes that make timed lighting less effective or less safe. The goal is practical: reduce the chance your home looks unoccupied and reduce easy opportunities, while acknowledging that outcomes vary by neighborhood conditions, home layout, visibility from the street, and the offender’s approach.

What does “using lights and timers to trick burglars” actually mean?

At its core, this approach is occupancy simulation — creating visual cues that suggest someone is home. It is not literally “tricking” in the sense of fooling every observer. It is about shifting a quick, informal risk calculation.

Most residential burglary is opportunistic in the sense that many targets are chosen because they look easy and low-risk. A visible sign of occupancy, or even uncertainty about occupancy, can push a target down the list. But it does not remove risk entirely, and it does not substitute for locked doors, secured windows, or sensible travel habits. (Springer)

Two clarifying definitions help:

• Burglary generally means unlawful entry with intent to commit a crime inside (often theft). It often occurs when no one is present.
• Robbery involves taking property from a person by force or threat. Lighting timers are primarily aimed at burglary risk, not robbery risk.

Occupancy simulation works best when it is treated as one layer in a broader plan: reduce easy access, increase the perceived chance of being noticed, and avoid advertising absence.

Do lights actually deter burglary?

Lighting can contribute to deterrence by increasing perceived visibility and increasing perceived risk of being observed. But the effect is not uniform, and it depends on how lighting is used and how it interacts with other cues.

Research on environmental crime prevention often finds that improving lighting in public residential areas is associated with crime reductions in many, but not all, evaluations. Results vary by context, implementation, and what crimes are measured. (Office of Justice Programs) The main point for a traveler is not that “light stops crime,” but that light can change conditions that make offending feel easier.

Translating street or area lighting evidence to an individual home requires humility. A home is a micro-environment. A porch light that creates glare, or a single lamp that turns on at the same time every night for weeks, can also create patterns and blind spots. Lighting can deter, but it can also signal absence if it looks staged.

A careful, honest statement is this: timed lighting can help your home look less empty, and that can reduce risk in some situations, but there is no setting that guarantees safety. The best results come from realism, variability, and pairing lighting with basic physical security. (Springer)

Why timers usually work better than leaving a light on

A timer is usually better than a continuously lit home because constant lighting is easy to interpret. If a light never changes, an observer can quickly conclude it is automated, forgotten, or staged.

A timed pattern introduces uncertainty. And uncertainty matters because burglary decisions are often made quickly, based on multiple cues rather than a single sign. Research on burglary decision-making emphasizes that offenders use visible cues of effort and risk at the property level, not just neighborhood reputation. (ScienceDirect)

Timers also reduce energy waste compared with “always on” strategies. That is not just about cost. It is also about keeping behavior closer to normal. A home that is unnaturally bright for long periods can attract attention from the wrong kinds of observers, and sometimes from the right ones too.

What cues of occupancy matter, and how does lighting fit in?

Lighting is one cue among many, and it is most useful when it supports a consistent story: someone is home, moving through the space, and following ordinary rhythms.

Occupancy cues tend to fall into a few categories:

Visual rhythm cues

These are cues that change over time, such as lights turning on in the early evening and turning off later, with variation across rooms. These cues can suggest routine and movement without any single light being the “signal.”

Visibility and surveillance cues

Lighting can make it easier for neighbors or passersby to notice unusual activity. It can also make an offender feel exposed. But lighting that creates deep shadows near entry points can do the opposite.

Guardianship cues

Guardianship is not just a person physically present. It can include signals that someone might notice, respond, or interrupt. Timed lighting contributes by making the home look less unattended, which can increase perceived risk for an offender.

Evidence syntheses on household burglary prevention often emphasize that measures work best in combinations that both increase effort and increase perceived risk, rather than relying on a single device. Some research summaries explicitly include timed interior lights and exterior security lighting as part of effective combinations. (College of Policing)

The practical implication is straightforward: a believable lighting plan is helpful, but it should not be the only plan.

What types of timers and automation can you use, and what should you check?

Most travelers can achieve a strong occupancy-simulation effect with either plug-in timers, in-wall timer switches, or app-based automation. The right choice depends on your home’s wiring, the lights you need to control, and how comfortable you are maintaining settings while away.

Before anything else, two checks matter:

1. Electrical load rating: Timers and switches have maximum rated loads. Exceeding them can cause overheating or failure. This matters most when controlling multiple fixtures on one switch or when using older, higher-wattage bulbs.
2. Compatibility with the type of bulb and fixture: Some controls behave differently with LEDs, dimmable bulbs, and certain fixture types. If a light flickers, hums, or fails to turn fully off, the setup may be incompatible.

A small comparison table can reduce confusion:

Timer or control type	What it does well	Common limitations to plan for
Mechanical plug-in timer	Simple on and off control for lamps	Limited schedules, audible clicking, repeats predictably
Digital plug-in timer	Multiple on and off events per day	Still predictable if not varied; settings can reset after outages on some models
In-wall timer switch	Controls hardwired fixtures reliably	Wiring requirements vary; may need neutral wire depending on design
“Astronomical” timer (sunrise/sunset based)	Tracks seasonal day length automatically	Needs correct location and time settings; can drift if not maintained
Network-based automation	Easy schedule changes while away; can randomize	Depends on home network stability and power; privacy and account access matter

Because products differ, it is wise to read the safety and installation information for any device. If installation is unclear or your wiring is older, professional electrical help can be the safer choice. That is a safety recommendation, not a requirement.

How many lights should be timed for realistic occupancy simulation?

A realistic plan usually uses more than one light, but not so many that the house looks unusually lit. The right number depends on home size, window visibility, and how many rooms are visible from outside.

As a baseline principle: prioritize rooms that are visible from the street or from common approaches. That might include a front-facing living space or a hallway that casts light through sidelights or transoms. If your windows are heavily shaded and little interior light is visible, then exterior lighting may carry more weight.

But there is also a caution: too much interior light can create silhouettes, reveal high-value items, or allow an observer to see that nothing else is moving. Occupancy simulation should suggest normal use, not a staged display.

For many homes, a practical pattern involves:

• One or two main lights that come on early evening.
• One secondary light in a different area that comes on later.
• One bedroom-area light that turns on briefly later in the evening on some days, not every day.

The specific rooms should reflect your actual normal life. The more your schedule deviates from what is normal for your home, the more it can read as automated.

How should indoor lights be scheduled so they look believable?

Believable schedules generally follow a “ramp up, shift, ramp down” pattern across the evening, with some variation day to day.

In plain terms:

• Ramp up: One or two lights come on around the time interior lighting normally begins.
• Shift: A different room lights up later, while one earlier light may turn off.
• Ramp down: Most lights turn off at a plausible bedtime range, not at the exact same minute every night.

This works because it resembles how people actually use spaces: early evening in a common area, later evening in another area, then lights out. It also avoids the giveaway of every light turning on at once.

What time range should indoor lights run?

A rigid answer is not reliable because sunset and household routines vary. But you can anchor to two practical markers:

• Local dusk as the earliest plausible time for interior lighting to become visible.
• A normal household bedtime range as the latest plausible time for most lights to go off.

If your travel crosses time zones, remember that your home’s timers will keep local time, not your travel time. The schedule should be built for the home’s location.

Should lights run every night?

Usually yes, but not identically. Consistency in the broad pattern can be helpful, but repetition in exact timing can be a problem. Many timers allow multiple programs. Network-based controls may allow randomization within a time window. If your setup cannot randomize, you can still vary schedules manually before travel by programming alternate day patterns.

How much variation is enough?

A useful target is variation that looks like life, not like software. Small shifts are often sufficient:

• Vary start time by a modest range rather than a fixed minute.
• Vary which secondary light turns on on different days.
• Avoid switching lights in a perfectly even, clockwork cadence.

Over-randomization can look strange, like a house with lights flashing in rooms that do not make sense. Variation should remain within normal human behavior.

Which indoor lights are safer and more practical for timers?

Low-heat, stable fixtures are generally safer for unattended use than heat-heavy lighting. The specific risk depends on the fixture, the bulb type, and how close heat is to shade fabric or other materials.

General safety practices include:

• Prefer lighting that stays cool in normal operation.
• Avoid covering lamps with fabric or materials that trap heat.
• Keep cords clear of rugs and pinch points where they can be damaged.
• Avoid cheap extension chains that create loose connections.

Because products vary, it is safer to treat any unusual warmth, buzzing, flickering, or odor as a reason to stop and reassess before departure.

Should you use overhead lights or lamps for occupancy simulation?

Lamps often look more natural than bright overhead lighting, especially in the evening. Many households use softer, localized lighting after dark. Overhead lighting can still be appropriate, but it can also make a space look staged if it is unusually bright for long stretches.

A balanced approach can work:

• Use a lamp or two for the main early-evening cue.
• Use a different lamp or a modest overhead light for a late-evening cue.
• Keep the overall brightness consistent with how the home normally looks at night.

Again, the goal is not to create a brightly lit showpiece. It is to create plausible human use.

How should curtains and blinds be handled with timed lighting?

Window coverings shape what lighting looks like from outside. They affect whether the home looks occupied, whether shadows move, and how much of the interior is visible.

A few practical principles:

• Fully open windows can reveal too much stillness. Fully closed windows can hide all lighting cues. Many homes naturally sit somewhere in between.
• Sheer coverings can diffuse light and make it harder to interpret exact objects inside, while still showing a warm glow.
• Some window arrangements create strong, rectangular “light blocks” that look unnatural if they appear and disappear at perfectly regular times.

Because privacy and home layout vary, there is no single best setting. The honest aim is to choose a window-covering position that resembles your normal nightly practice while reducing the visibility of valuables.

How should exterior lighting be used for travel-time security?

Exterior lighting is most effective when it supports safe visibility around entry points and reduces hiding opportunities, without creating glare or deep shadow pockets.

Exterior lighting has two main functions:

1. Visibility: It helps people see what is happening around doors, paths, and yards.
2. Perceived risk: It can make a person approaching the home feel more exposed.

Research syntheses on lighting and crime prevention suggest that improved lighting can reduce crime in many contexts, but the mechanisms can be complex and outcomes can vary. (Office of Justice Programs) For a homeowner, the practical takeaway is to treat exterior lighting as a support for visibility and guardianship, not as a magic shield.

Dusk-to-dawn lighting versus timed lighting

• Dusk-to-dawn: Keeps a consistent exterior baseline. This can be helpful for safety, but it can become background, especially if neighbors do the same.
• Timed exterior lighting: Can better match normal household behavior if it turns off later in the evening. But if it repeats perfectly, it can become a pattern.

A combined plan can work well: maintain modest, consistent safety lighting where needed, while using timed interior lighting to simulate occupancy.

Motion-activated lighting

Motion-activated lights can deter some approach behavior by suddenly exposing movement, but their effectiveness depends on setup and context. If sensitivity is too high, frequent false triggers can annoy neighbors and can also create a predictable pattern. If sensitivity is too low, the light may not trigger when it should.

Motion lighting can be helpful near common entry routes, but it should not be the only exterior lighting. And it should be tested at night from realistic approach angles before travel.

Avoiding glare and creating useful light

Poorly aimed exterior lights can create glare that makes it harder to see. Glare can also help an offender by making it difficult for others to view details. Useful exterior lighting is typically:

• Aimed to illuminate the ground plane and entry surfaces, not to shine outward into eyes.
• Positioned to reduce deep shadows near doors, gates, and side access.
• Maintained so that burned-out bulbs do not create obvious dark zones.

How do you make timed lighting look “lived in” instead of automated?

You make it look lived in by matching human rhythms, by using more than one light source, and by avoiding perfect repetition.

This is the core of the entire topic. Many timed lighting plans fail because they are too simple. The most common giveaways are:

• One light on for the same long block every night.
• Multiple lights turning on and off at exactly the same time.
• Lighting that does not match local dusk patterns for the season.
• A house that is brightly lit at odd hours, then completely dark early evening.

A more believable plan is built from these components:

Component 1: A normal start

Choose an evening start window that aligns with seasonal darkness. If your timer has an “astronomical” or sunrise/sunset function, use it, but verify it is set correctly for your location. If you cannot do that, update schedules seasonally.

Component 2: A mid-evening change

A mid-evening change matters because it signals movement. That change can be a light turning off in one area and another turning on elsewhere. It should not happen at a fixed minute every night.

Component 3: A normal end

Most homes do not keep multiple lights blazing until very late every night. A realistic plan usually tapers. One late light can remain on for a while, but a fully lit home at midnight can look unusual depending on neighborhood norms.

Component 4: Imperfect variability

Human life is not perfectly random, but it is not perfectly regular either. The best variability looks like:

• Small shifts across days.
• Occasional deviations.
• No visible “algorithm” pattern.

If your tools do not allow true randomization, you can still create variation by programming different schedules across different days.

How should you plan lighting if your home is visible from multiple sides?

If multiple sides of your home are visible, prioritize the sides that offer easiest entry and the sides most visible to public view. This typically means front and side approaches rather than secluded backyard zones, but the correct answer depends on your property layout.

The main principle is to avoid creating an obvious “dark shell” with a single bright window. One bright, lone room can look like a staged deterrent. A more natural impression often comes from:

• A moderate glow in one front area.
• A separate light that appears later, possibly in a different visible zone.

This is about balancing cues. Too few cues can look staged. Too many cues can look like a display.

Can timed lighting backfire by highlighting valuables or enabling surveillance?

Yes, lighting can backfire if it makes the interior easier to read. This is an under-discussed risk.

When a home is brightly lit and curtains are open, it can be easier for an observer to see:

• Whether anyone is moving.
• Where high-value items are visible.
• Whether the home looks organized or cluttered.

Occupancy simulation should be paired with sensible interior visibility practices. That may mean adjusting window coverings so the home glows without revealing details, and ensuring that high-value items are not displayed prominently near windows.

Because every home differs, the safe advice is to evaluate your home from outside at night before travel. You are not looking for perfection. You are looking for obvious visibility problems that can be reduced.

How does timing relate to the fact that many burglaries happen in daytime?

Timed lighting still matters even if many burglaries occur during daylight because travel absence creates vulnerability across the full day, and lighting is only one layer. Some reporting and summary sources note that residential burglary often occurs during daytime hours when homes are unoccupied. (LiveNOW FOX) Even when that is true, it does not mean lighting is irrelevant. It means you should not focus only on night.

Daytime risk is addressed more by:

• Physical security (locks, window latches, secured secondary doors).
• Reducing visible cues of long absence.
• Ensuring the property does not look neglected.

Lighting helps primarily with the evening visibility window, when an empty home can stand out. It is a targeted tool, not a full-day solution.

What other devices can be put on timers, and what are the cautions?

Timers can control more than lights, but adding timed devices can create new risks if you choose items that generate heat, noise, or mechanical strain.

Some people use timers for sound, window coverings, or other cues. The principle is the same: simulate normal life. The cautions are also similar:

• Heat sources should generally not be left cycling unattended.
• Devices that can fail in a way that creates fire risk should not be automated casually.
• Anything that could disturb neighbors if it malfunctions should be treated with restraint.

If you add non-light devices, keep them limited, safe, and consistent with normal household behavior. An overbuilt “simulation” can look stranger than an empty home.

How do power outages and connectivity failures affect timer plans?

Power outages and connectivity failures are common reasons lighting plans fail. You can reduce this risk by choosing controls that recover gracefully and by planning for the failure mode.

Consider these points:

• Some digital timers keep programming in memory but may not keep correct time after an outage unless they have backup power or a nonvolatile clock.
• Some controls default to “off” after power restoration, while others return to the prior state.
• Network-based automation may fail if the home’s internet or router loses power or freezes.

A simple reliability practice is to test what happens when you cut power briefly and restore it. Do this well before travel so you have time to adjust.

How do seasonal time changes and daylight shifts affect schedules?

Daylight changes can make a previously believable schedule look wrong within a few weeks. This is especially true in seasons where sunset shifts quickly.

Two issues are common:

1. Daylight saving time shifts: If your region changes clocks, any timer that does not update automatically can be off by an hour.
2. Seasonal sunset drift: Even without clock changes, dusk moves earlier or later across the year.

Astronomical timers can reduce this problem, but they still require correct setup. If you are using fixed-time schedules, update them seasonally and consider building in some variability so the plan stays plausible over a range of light conditions.

What are the most common mistakes with light timers for travel security?

Most failures come from predictability, unrealistic brightness, or poor alignment with normal life. These are the mistakes that most often undermine the goal:

Mistake 1: One light, all night, every night

This often reads as staged. It can also waste energy and can illuminate the interior too clearly.

Mistake 2: Perfectly repeating schedules

A repeating schedule can be detected quickly by anyone watching for patterns. Variation is not a luxury. It is part of plausibility.

Mistake 3: All lights turning on and off together

This resembles a commercial timer system more than real life. It can also create a dramatic “event” at the moment the whole house changes, which draws attention.

Mistake 4: Lighting that does not match the season

If interior lights turn on when it is still bright outside, the cue may not be visible at all. If they turn on late when the neighborhood is already dark, the home may have looked empty for hours.

Mistake 5: Ignoring windows and sightlines

If the timed light is in a room that cannot be seen, it does little for occupancy simulation. If it is in a room that reveals valuables, it can increase risk.

Mistake 6: Overloading timers or using worn cords

This is both a safety and reliability problem. A tripped breaker or failed timer can leave the home dark and can create hazards.

Mistake 7: Setting and forgetting without testing

Timer plans should be tested after programming. Many setups fail because a switch was left off, a lamp was unplugged, or a timer mode was incorrect.

What is a sensible, safe pre-travel lighting plan?

A sensible plan is limited, realistic, and tested. You are trying to look normal, not to stage a performance.

A practical pre-travel sequence can be:

Step 1: Choose the visible rooms

Identify which windows and doors are visible from public approaches. Plan lighting in those areas first.

Step 2: Create an evening pattern

Build a pattern with:

• One early-evening light.
• One later-evening change.
• A normal taper.

If you can vary the plan by day of week, do so.

Step 3: Add exterior lighting where it supports visibility

Ensure entry areas are not in deep shadow. Avoid blinding glare.

Step 4: Confirm switches, bulbs, and coverings

A timer cannot turn on a lamp if the lamp switch is off. A schedule cannot look natural if window coverings make it look like a showroom. Align everything with ordinary use.

Step 5: Test the plan at night

Observe from outside. Adjust brightness, timing, and room choice.

Step 6: Test power restoration behavior

If the system fails after a power event, decide whether that is acceptable. Some travelers accept that no plan is perfect. Others prefer controls designed to recover automatically.

Step 7: Keep the plan maintainable

A plan that is too complex can fail because it is harder to verify. Keep it simple enough that you can confirm it before leaving.

How do lights and timers fit into a broader “deterrence and delay” strategy?

Lighting is a deterrence layer. It is strongest when paired with measures that increase effort and reduce easy entry. Evidence syntheses on burglary reduction often emphasize combinations of measures rather than single interventions. (Springer)

Without naming specific products or services, a broader strategy typically includes:

• Securing doors and windows so entry requires more time and noise.
• Reducing visibility of valuables from windows.
• Ensuring the property does not look neglected.
• Using lighting to reduce the appearance of absence and increase visibility near entry points.

This approach aligns with widely used criminological frameworks that focus on reducing opportunity, increasing effort, and increasing perceived risk rather than assuming offenders are persuaded by one cue. (SAGE Study)

How should travelers think about “smart” lighting versus basic timers?

Basic timers can be sufficient if programmed well, while network-based automation can add flexibility and variability if it remains reliable. The tradeoff is complexity.

Basic timers:

• Are often more resilient to internet issues.
• Can be easy to verify.
• Can still look automated if schedules are rigid.

Network-based automation:

• Can support variability and remote adjustment.
• Can fail if home connectivity fails.
• Adds account access considerations and privacy considerations.

A reasonable choice is the one you can maintain confidently. Reliability often matters more than features.

Are there privacy and security risks in connected lighting controls?

Yes, any connected control introduces account, network, and privacy considerations. The risk level varies by device design, how accounts are protected, and whether the home network is well managed.

If you use connected controls, consider:

• Strong account passwords and multi-step verification when available.
• Regular updates when the device requires them.
• Avoiding shared or reused passwords.
• Limiting unnecessary remote access permissions.

This is not meant to be alarming. It is meant to be realistic: convenience systems can create new points of failure. Travelers should weigh that honestly.

How should renters, condo owners, and short-term residents approach timed lighting?

Start with what you are allowed to control safely without altering building wiring or violating rules. Many residents can use plug-in timers and lamp-based strategies without modifying anything.

Important variables include:

• Whether you can change bulbs in shared exterior fixtures.
• Whether you can install in-wall switches.
• Whether exterior lighting is controlled by the building.

If you cannot control exterior lighting, interior lighting becomes more important. But it should still be believable and safe.

What should you avoid doing with lights and timers?

Avoid anything that creates hazard, nuisance, or legal trouble. Lighting should support safety and plausibility.

Avoid:

• Overheating setups, overloaded cords, or unstable stacks of adapters.
• Flashing patterns that could disturb neighbors or draw attention.
• Devices that could create a fire hazard when cycling unattended.
• Any “trap” concept. Deterrence should not create danger to people, responders, or neighbors.

A good rule is that your plan should look like normal life and should fail safely if something goes wrong.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do light timers really deter burglars?

They can deter some burglary attempts by making a home look less empty and by increasing perceived risk of being noticed. Their effectiveness varies by neighborhood, visibility, and how realistically they are programmed. They work best as one layer alongside basic physical security and sensible travel preparation. (Springer)

Is it better to leave a light on or use a timer?

A timer is usually better because constant lighting can look staged and can signal absence. Timers create change over time, which is a more plausible cue of occupancy, especially when more than one light is used and schedules vary.

Should I run lights all night while I travel?

Usually not. An all-night, unchanging light can look unnatural and can waste energy. A more believable plan typically concentrates lighting in the evening and tapers off around a normal bedtime range, with some variation.

How many lights should I put on timers?

There is no universal number. Many homes benefit from at least two lights in visible areas, scheduled to change across the evening. The goal is plausibility, not brightness. Too many lights can look staged, and too few can look like a single automated cue.

Do outdoor motion lights help when I am away?

They can help if properly aimed and adjusted, especially near entry routes. But they can also be triggered by nonthreatening movement and can become predictable. Motion lighting is best treated as a supplement to steady, well-aimed exterior lighting and realistic interior lighting.

Will a timer work after a power outage?

It depends on the timer. Some keep programming but lose the correct time. Others reset or default to off. Test your setup by briefly cutting power and restoring it so you know how it behaves before you leave.

How do I handle daylight saving time changes while traveling?

If your timers do not adjust automatically, they can become off by an hour. Update schedules before departure if a time change is expected during your trip, or use a control that tracks local time reliably.

Should lights turn on at the same time every day?

No. Perfect repetition is a common giveaway. Variation within a reasonable window tends to look more like real life, especially when paired with changes across rooms rather than a single repeated block.

Can lighting make my home less safe by revealing valuables?

Yes, if lighting makes the interior easy to see through uncovered windows. A safer approach is to aim for a visible glow while limiting detailed visibility. Adjust window coverings and remove high-value items from window sightlines.

Are smart controls always better than basic timers?

Not always. Smart controls can allow more realistic variability and remote adjustments, but they introduce reliance on internet connectivity and account security. Basic timers can be very effective when programmed realistically and tested for reliability.

What is the most important “one thing” to get right?

Realism. A believable pattern usually includes multiple lights, varied timing, and a schedule that matches the season and normal household rhythms. A simple, repeating schedule is the most common reason this approach fails.

If lighting is only one layer, what else matters most while I travel?

Physical security and reducing obvious signs of long absence matter greatly. Lighting supports deterrence, but secure doors and windows, a property that does not look neglected, and a home that does not advertise vacancy are often more consequential than any single timer setting. (Springer)