From seed to sweet pods, peas are a rewarding vegetable to grow in your own garden. For the best results, choose touchhealthy seeds that have a higher germination rate and are less prone to disease.
Prepare your soil with a light application of organic compost or slow-release fertilizer. Peas are vigorous climbers, so provide trellises or other supports that they can wrap their tendrils around.
Cool-Season Lovers
As the name suggests, peas are cool season crops. They love to grow in the cool of spring and fall, but are less happy during hot weather. This is why they are best planted in the early or late spring and fall, rather than in mid-summer. If you try to plant them when the sun is hot and the days short, they will be in a race against time to mature before day lengths fall too much (for our area of the world that happens around the end of October).
Once peas are in the ground, they need a steady stream of water to get established. Water them deeply every week or so, and if deer or squirrels are visiting your garden, cover them at night. This will keep them from gnawing away at the delicate new plants.
After a week or two, peas should start to grow little tendrils down the stems and up into the air. If you are growing vining peas on a trellis, use twine to encircle the whole planting as they climb up it. This is one of the most important tasks when growing peas; tying them up as they grow will help keep their growth neat and productive, versus tangled or sloppy. This is also one of the easiest things to do in the garden, as it only takes a few minutes a week.
Peas are legumes, which means they help to fix nitrogen in the soil for other plants. They don’t need much fertilizer, but if you are planting in poorly-fertile soil or a brand-new garden, they may benefit from a dose of nitrogen-fixing rhizobia bacteria to kickstart the process. Once this is done, however, peas do not need the bacteria again. In fact, overdoing it with nitrogen will encourage leafy growth instead of flowers and pods. Mulching the ground where peas are planted will also help, as it keeps the soil cool and moist. This is great for both root and shoot growth, as well as preventing fungal diseases. Try using a compost or grass clippings as your mulch.
Depth and Spacing
Peas need to be planted in loose, well-draining soil, amended with organic matter to promote root growth and improve nutrient availability. Follow the growing directions included on your seed packet or in the catalog for specific information about planting depth, trellising needs, days to maturity and more.
When planting directly into the garden, dig a hole that is at least 1″ deep and space pea seeds about 3″ apart. Lightly cover with dirt and water gently to settle the seeds. Optionally, coat seeds with a rhizobia inoculant – a powdered form of the bacteria that fixes nitrogen in legume roots – to encourage faster germination and boost yield.
If you are starting your peas indoors, plant them in containers that are at least 12 inches wide with a good amount of depth to allow for adequate root growth. Use a high-quality potting mix rich in organic matter and be sure to keep the soil evenly moist. If your pea plants are prone to insect damage try adding a layer of shredded newspaper or cardboard under the container.
Once peas have germinated and are well established they can be transplanted into their permanent garden beds. Be sure to harden off your peas before putting them out in the garden by setting them outside during the day and bringing them inside at night.
In mild-winter climates, late fall (Nov/Dec) is best for planting cool-season peas, while in areas with more extreme winters, early spring (March/April) is ideal. Be sure to protect young flowering peas from frost; it is common for a light freeze to harm developing pea pods and even deform them.
When peas are about 8″ tall and you see tendrils forming they are ready to start climbing a trellis. If you are using a teepee or other vertical support system, simply encircle each plant with twine and tie in a small bow at the top. Continue to add rows of twine every 2″ to 3″ along the trellis, like ladder rungs, so the pea plants have something to latch onto as they grow.
Water Deeply
Peas are cool-season crops and thrive best in cool, moist conditions. While they are relatively fast-growing and can handle some heat, a warm or hot growing season will delay harvest and reduce yields. If temperatures in your area will consistently climb above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, provide afternoon shade or keep plants covered with a row cover to protect the delicate pea vines.
Once peas are in the ground or in containers they need consistent, deep watering to encourage strong and plentiful growth. Using a hose with a spray nozzle or a watering can with small holes in the bottom will help you avoid disturbing or crushing young pea plants with excessive force. You can also make your own convenient watering bottle by repurposing an old plastic soda or water bottle with a few small holes poked into the screw-on lid.
When watering, drench soil gently until it is moist but not soggy, and then keep soil evenly moist to encourage peas’ strong growth. A light application of organic fertilizer, such as compost, manure or seaweed meal, added to each watering will improve overall plant health and encourage abundant pod production.
The key nutrient for peas is nitrogen, which they acquire from the soil via nodules on their roots (see photo below). While peas are efficient at acquiring their own nitrogen, they prefer rich, well-rotted organic matter to supply additional phosphorus, or P. The best sources of P include bone meal, aged compost or manure, earthworm castings and seabird guano. Avoid rock based phosphate fertilizer as it tends to leach heavy metals into waterways, contributing to algae and aquatic plant overgrowth and depleting oxygen levels, damaging wildlife and fish.
Once the peas are tall enough and have started to send out tendrils, begin training them up a trellis. When the plants are about 8″ tall, encircle them with twine like you would corralling a little herd of sheep, and then continue adding rows of twine every 2″ to 3″ up the trellis, like ladder rungs.
Harvest the peas any time from 40 to 60 days after planting. The tender shoots are delicious in salads and sandwiches, and you can even harvest the peas and pods before the seeds develop for a sweet snack. Peas are a high-yielding crop that adds valuable protein to your diet. The pea nodules on the roots also release nitrogen back into the soil when they decompose, making this a legume that not only feeds you but makes your garden more fertile than it was before.
Harvest Often
Pea plants are fragile and should be harvested often to encourage continuous production. It is important to not let the plant become overburdened with seeds and stop producing pods, which will cause it to start looking ragged, and may also lead to diseases such as powdery mildew. Harvest as soon as the pods are large enough to eat, but before the peas inside turn bitter. The pods should snap easily when you bend them, and they can be eaten raw or added to soups and salads. Peas can also be frozen for later use, but they must be blanched first by dropping them into a pot of boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes (don’t overcook or they will be mushy).
When planting in the garden, cool-season peas go in as soon as the soil can be worked, which usually means in early spring. Warm-season peas can be planted in the fall, but spring plantings typically yield more.
After planting, water peas thoroughly to ensure that they are well hydrated. Then, water them regularly throughout the growing season to keep the soil evenly moist. The frequency of watering depends on your climate and the weather, but a good rule of thumb is to check the soil for moisture by feeling it with your finger—if it’s dry, it’s time to water.
As the peas mature, their demand for water increases as they grow taller and develop pods. To prevent fungal disease, keep the watering light by only watering in the morning or using a soaker hose to minimize leaf wetness. Aim to water the soil down to about an inch deep—feeling the soil with your fingers will help you avoid over-watering and root rot.
If you’re planting in containers, choose a container that is nearly as deep as your peas will grow. This will help to promote deep roots and a sturdy, healthy plant. For climbing varieties, add a trellis or other climbing structure before the peas begin to climb. Adding a layer of mulch to the top of the container will also improve air circulation, keep the soil temperature cooler and inhibit weeds.
