How Composting Helps Your Garden Soil

Fall is the ideal time to add organic materials such as compost and soil amendments to your garden, such as decomposed plant matter that will decompose over winter, making your soil ready to go come springtime.

Assemble a compost pile by layering 2-6 inches of material alternately composed of “greens” (food scraps, leaves and straw) and “browns”, such as cardboard scraps from your office, leaves or straw bales to maintain an appropriate ratio between carbon to nitrogen for optimal microbial activity. Insulate it using straw bales or thick layers of leaves in order to protect it from cold temperatures.

Enriches Soil Structure

A healthy garden soil consists of mineral particles (sand, silt and clay), organic matter and water in various proportions; their combination determines its type and influences how your plants will flourish. But its true magic lies within soil organisms: bacteria, fungi, protozoa and other microscopic life that turn organic matter into vitamins, hormones and disease-suppressing compounds essential for plant health and growth. Furthermore, these organisms help bind soil particles together into small aggregates or “crumbs”, creating optimal conditions for biological activity (aeration and water retention).

A healthy soil structure features plenty of large pore spaces between these crumbs, allowing enough air to support organisms such as worms. Furthermore, its porous nature aids drainage – its pores allow water to enter and leave at different rates and avoids creating waterlogged conditions which suffocate both organisms and roots alike.

Your palm can help you test the texture of soil with ease; any wetted sample that forms into an aggregate when squeezed is sandy; crumbly material that sticks together but becomes sticky or rubbery when handled is heavy clay; while loamy soil feels velvety-smooth when handled. A pH test should also be carried out regularly as soil with an acidity level above 6.5 is too acidic for most plants while alkaline conditions suffocate many plant roots.

Compost, the ultimate soil conditioner, is an invaluable way to enhance soil structure. By adding layers of coarse material such as straw or wood chips for drainage and aeration purposes, such as food scraps or grass clippings (food scraps are considered “green”) with leaves, branches or sticks (brown), compost piles 2-6 inches thick can be created and the contents gradually mixed over time with rotating batches that feature food waste such as grass clippings (food scraps, grass clippings or manure), leaves or sticks etc. With time the process breaks up compacted clay/sand mixtures while simultaneously adding water-retaining organic particles that counteract rapid drainage caused by rapid drainage from sandy surfaces – giving a boost to soil texture as sand can do!).

Enhances Nutrient Content

Healthy soil is home to millions of microorganisms–good bacteria and fungi, nematodes, mites, springtails, earthworms and others–that convert organic matter and minerals into the vitamins, hormones, disease-suppressing compounds and nutrients necessary for plant life to flourish. They aerate the soil by breaking up any stubborn clumps so roots can penetrate further into the ground; furthermore they balance pH levels so your garden plants can take in all their necessary nutrients from their surroundings.

At their best, soils combine inorganic elements such as sand and silt with organic matter such as compost and humus to form aggregates known as “crumbs” that hold water while still allowing air to circulate – ideal conditions for plant roots to follow easily and work more easily while decreasing surface crusting risk.

For an easy way to check the texture of your garden soil, simply press a small piece between your fingers. If it remains intact and feels gritty, that indicates sandy soil; if crumbles easily or becomes sticky when wet then this indicates clayey soil. An effective compost addition to any garden soil type will enhance its texture, promote aggregate formation, moderate the pH levels and fertility levels of the soil and make management of it simpler – ideal conditions being between 6.8-6.9. Most plants, like vegetables and fruit, like an ideal pH level range. But some, like azaleas and blueberries, require acidic soil. To balance out their pH level, applying compost from materials you already use in your own garden should help bring things back into equilibrium.

Combats Soil Compaction

Soil compaction limits plant roots’ ability to freely penetrate soil, leading to depleted essential nutrients and potentially depriving plants of essential elements they need for healthy development. Composting can help combat soil compaction by breaking it down and absorbing more nutrients; gardeners can test for compaction using an object such as a shovel or probe in order to assess whether the density of the soil has become compacted enough to require deeper penetrators to reach deeper into it – if such implement has difficulty reaching this depth it may indicate too dense or compaction has occurred and should be further investigated further by trying this route – gardeners should take action in order to take control over this situation!

Soils that are too compacted are challenging to dig, till, and work with, providing limited nutrient access and taking longer than necessary to drain after rainfall. Many gardeners may be unaware that their vegetable gardens or flower beds contain compacted soils until their plants start growing poorly, their root systems appear limited, or water pools instead of draining quickly after an intense rainfall event.

Compaction is more prevalent in heavier soils like clay and loam, yet can also occur in sandy ones. Heavy equipment, foot traffic and adding too much organic matter may all lead to soil compaction; such events reduce particle sizes while making it more difficult for pores to open up and breathe freely.

One of the primary sources of soil compaction is over-tilling. When soil is repeatedly tilled, small particle aggregations break down, while larger ones fill in any spaces between them – leaving less pore space and making it harder for air and water to move through it. Another cause is working wet soil when too wet; when a handful of dirt holds together when poked gently it should be left to dry until crumbles occur naturally. Mixing sand into clay soils to loosen it can also result in compaction as the resulting mixture becomes like concrete compared to its predecessor.

Encourages Earthworms

Earthworms thrive on organic matter and their burrows help aerate the soil. They digest humic acids that control disease-causing pathogens while improving soil health, producing castings with eight times the nutrients present when fed into. But Earthworm populations may be hard to come by due to low organic matter levels, sandy soil drying out too quickly, toxic substances or reduced tillage which drive earthworms underground or into hibernation unless conditions are favorable; composting and reduced tillage could encourage them to come out again! Luckily composting and reduced tillage can encourage their return.

If you want earthworms to colonise your garden soil, provide them with a constant supply of fresh, moist organic waste from either the garden or compost heaps – such as leaves, straw, hay, paper scraps, food waste (including uncooked egg shells and peels from fruit), fruit rinds/peels etc. To encourage them into your worm bin more effectively aim to fill about half the bin up with these items then balance with clean crushed eggshells (or grit and calcium) as a balanced mix.

Avoid tilling your garden soil as this disturbs worm burrows and compromises soil structure. If digging is required, try using a fork rather than a spade as this reduces your chances of accidentally cutting into an earthworm’s body.

Once your compost pile or no-dig garden is set up, worms will take over most of the work for you, burrowing into the soil to break down organic material further. If you have excess worm compost that goes unused, give some to neighbors or donate it to local gardening projects; you could even turn it into worm tea which acts as natural plant fertilizer!

Helps Garden Overwinter

Garden soil is alive with life, acting as a living ecosystem to feed plant nutrients to their roots. Compost is the ideal material to introduce organic matter into your soil as it includes brown and green materials which decompose and enrich its components – just add leaves, kitchen scraps, grass clippings or plant parts and weeds into it – providing essential nutrition to plant roots.

Loamy soil is ideal for gardening, comprising equal parts sand, silt, and clay. It keeps water at optimal levels while draining efficiently to allow oxygen into plant roots. Loamy soil also boasts plenty of organic matter like humus (organic matter), making it easy to work and rich in nutrient content; its texture feels slightly gritty but crumbles easily when squeezed when squeezed. If unsure what type of soil you have at your site submit a sample sample to your university Cooperative Extension service who will test for testing at an inexpensive fee and identify exactly what type of soil is present there

Compressed soil doesn’t allow water and nutrients to absorb properly, hampering microbiological activity that converts organic materials to nutrients that feed plant roots. Furthermore, compacted soil restricts movement of earthworms that shred, chew, and dig organic matter into smaller bits that bacteria or fungi can digest for better soil aeration.

As organic materials such as leaves and garden waste become available for composting, the optimal time to amend your soil with it should be late summer or early fall, when there is plenty of organic matter such as leaves. Compost can help your garden transition overwinter more successfully, making sure it will be ready to begin growing again as soon as the ground thaws in spring. Before beginning working your soil though, make sure it’s sufficiently dry – to test this, grab a handful from depth of about 6 inches, squeeze gently while compressing into ribbon form; any water coming out should indicate more drying time is needed – for best results, grab handfuls from depth of around 6 inches to check it’s readiness before beginning any further manipulation – similarly solid ball-forming soil needs additional drying time as does pressing into ribbon formation or balling up on hard press surfaces which cannot be worked upon once compressed into ribbon forms need more time before working them with them.

How to use compost in the garden