If you’ve ever walked by a cottage-style garden and spotted towering stalks covered in large, vibrant blooms that seem to glow in the sun, chances are, you’ve seen hollyhocks. These old-fashioned flowers have been winning hearts for centuries, and for good reason. They’re bold, beautiful, and bring an unmistakable charm to gardens. They can transform a bland backyard into something out of a storybook.
Despite their dramatic height and show-stopping flowers, hollyhocks aren’t high-maintenance. With the right know-how, anyone can grow them—whether you’re gardening on a large lot or just have a small patch by the porch. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to grow hollyhocks that turn heads and get compliments.
What Are Hollyhocks?
Hollyhocks belong to the Alcea genus, part of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They’re known for their tall flower spikes, often reaching six to eight feet, sometimes even higher. The flowers bloom in a single or double form, and the range of colors is impressive: deep reds, soft pinks, sunny yellows, crisp whites, and nearly black shades of purple.
They’re usually biennials, which means they grow leaves the first year and bloom the second. Some varieties behave like short-lived perennials, especially in mild climates. There are even annual hollyhocks for impatient gardeners.
The most popular species is Alcea rosea, commonly known as the common hollyhock. It’s the one you’re most likely to find at garden centers and in old homestead gardens.
Why Gardeners Love Them
- Height and Drama: Hollyhocks are vertical powerhouses. They add dimension to garden beds and serve as living backdrops for shorter plants.
- Pollinator Magnets: Bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds love them. If you’re looking to support your local ecosystem, hollyhocks help.
- Cottage Garden Style: Nothing says “quaint and charming” like a border of hollyhocks leaning against a picket fence.
- Easy to Grow from Seed: Unlike some fussy ornamentals, hollyhocks grow easily from seed and often self-sow once established.
Picking the Right Variety
Hollyhocks come in different heights, flower styles, and colors. Some popular varieties include:
- ‘Chater’s Double’ – Big, fluffy double blooms in a rainbow of colors.
- ‘The Watchman’ – Deep maroon to nearly black single blooms. Gothic and gorgeous.
- ‘Peaches ’n Dreams’ – Soft, pastel double flowers in peachy tones.
- ‘Queeny Purple’ – A shorter variety (about 2-3 feet) that works well in containers or smaller gardens.
If you’re tight on space or don’t want to deal with staking, go for dwarf varieties. If you want dramatic height and color, go big with the classic types.
Starting from Seed
You can grow hollyhocks from nursery transplants, but starting from seed is cheaper and gives you more variety. You’ve got two options: direct sow or start indoors.
Direct Sowing:
- Best done in late spring or early summer for flowers the following year.
- Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
- Loosen the soil and mix in compost.
- Plant seeds about ¼ inch deep and 18 inches apart.
- Water gently but thoroughly.
Starting Indoors:
- Start seeds 6-8 weeks before your last frost date.
- Use seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix.
- Plant seeds ¼ inch deep.
- Keep them moist and warm (65–75°F).
- Once they have two sets of leaves, thin or transplant them into individual pots.
After the danger of frost has passed, harden off the seedlings by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. Then, plant them in their final spot.
Site and Soil
Sunlight: Hollyhocks need full sun. Aim for six hours or more per day. Less than that, and they’ll get leggy and flower poorly.
Soil: They aren’t picky, but they prefer well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. Mix compost into the planting area if your soil is poor or sandy.
Spacing: Give them room to breathe—18 to 24 inches apart. This spacing helps prevent disease and allows good airflow.
Wind Protection: Because they grow tall, hollyhocks can topple in strong winds. Plant them near fences, walls, or use garden stakes to keep them upright.
Watering and Feeding
Watering: Hollyhocks like consistent moisture but hate soggy roots. Water deeply once a week, more often in hot, dry weather. Water at the base, not from above—wet foliage invites disease.
Fertilizing: If your soil is decent, you might not need to feed at all. Otherwise, give them a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer once a month during the growing season. Compost or a slow-release fertilizer at planting time also works well.
Staking and Support
If your hollyhocks get over five feet tall—and many will—you’ll need to support them. Use bamboo stakes, garden canes, or tie them to a fence.
- Tie loosely with soft garden twine in a figure-eight loop.
- Check ties regularly to make sure they’re not cutting into stems.
- For mass plantings, consider using discreet netting or a simple trellis behind the row.
Deadheading and Maintenance
To keep hollyhocks blooming longer, deadhead the spent flowers. Cut the stalk back to a leaf node after a bloom fades. This also helps the plant focus energy on new growth instead of seeds.
If you want hollyhocks to reseed naturally, let some of the blooms go to seed. Once the pods dry and turn brown, you can collect them or let them fall.
Remove damaged or diseased leaves promptly to reduce the spread of rust and other problems.
Common Problems and How to Handle Them
Rust (Puccinia malvacearum):
This fungal disease is the number one hollyhock headache. It shows up as orange-brown spots on the underside of leaves. It starts at the base and works its way up.
How to prevent and manage rust:
- Water at the base, not from overhead.
- Space plants well to ensure good air circulation.
- Remove infected leaves and dispose of them (don’t compost).
- Clean up all plant debris in fall.
- Consider planting rust-resistant varieties like Alcea ficifolia (fig-leaved hollyhock).
If needed, use a sulfur-based fungicide early in the season as a preventative. Once rust sets in, it’s hard to control, but it usually doesn’t kill the plant—it just looks ugly.
Other Issues:
- Aphids: Spray with a strong blast of water or use insecticidal soap.
- Japanese Beetles: Hand-pick them or use traps placed far from your hollyhocks.
- Hollyhock Weevils: These small pests chew flower buds. Use neem oil or insecticidal soap if you see damage.
Overwintering Hollyhocks
In zones 3–8, hollyhocks usually survive winter just fine. In fall:
- Cut stems down to a few inches above ground.
- Mulch the base with straw or leaves in cold climates.
- Remove mulch in early spring to prevent rot.
If you’re growing them as biennials, don’t worry if they look unimpressive their first year. They’re busy building roots and foliage. Year two is when they put on a show.
Encouraging Reseeding
Once established, hollyhocks often reseed themselves. If you want them to keep coming back:
- Let some flowers form seed heads.
- Leave those seed pods to dry on the plant.
- Gently shake or scatter the seeds in fall.
- Scratch them into the soil lightly, or cover with a dusting of compost.
In spring, you’ll likely see baby hollyhocks popping up around the parent plant. Thin them out if they get too crowded.
Companion Plants
Hollyhocks pair well with many garden favorites. Try planting them with:
- Delphiniums – for height and similar bloom times.
- Lavender – adds fragrance and low contrast.
- Coneflowers – tough perennials that complement hollyhocks’ drama.
- Foxgloves – another tall flower that plays well in vertical spaces.
- Roses – for a full, cottage garden vibe.
Don’t plant hollyhocks where you’ll want to walk often. The tall stalks can lean out and block pathways.
Container Growing
You can grow hollyhocks in pots, but you’ll need:
- A large container—at least 16 inches wide and deep.
- A dwarf variety, unless you’re okay with staking a tall one.
- Rich, well-draining potting mix.
- Regular watering (containers dry out fast).
Place the container in full sun, and keep an eye on wind. Use a heavy pot to prevent tipping.
A Bit of History
Hollyhocks go way back. They’ve been cultivated since ancient times and were popular in medieval monastery gardens. In the Victorian era, they were a cottage garden staple, symbolizing ambition and the circle of life.
Today, they’re making a big comeback thanks to their vintage appeal and ease of growth. You’ll see them in urban gardens, suburban yards, and rural homesteads alike.
When to Plant Hollyhocks by USDA Zone
Timing matters when planting hollyhocks, especially if you want a strong root system before winter. The best time to direct sow hollyhock seeds is late spring to early summer, but the exact window depends on your USDA hardiness zone. Here’s a rough guide to help you plan. If starting indoors, aim to sow seeds 6–8 weeks before your last expected frost date.
| USDA Zone | Direct Sow Outdoors | Start Indoors |
|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | Late May – Early June | Late March |
| Zone 4 | Mid-May – Late May | Mid-March |
| Zone 5 | Early May – Mid-May | Early March |
| Zone 6 | Late April – Early May | Late February |
| Zone 7 | Mid-April – Late April | Mid-February |
| Zone 8 | Early April | Early February |
| Zone 9 | March | January |
| Zone 10 | February – Early March | December |
These dates are estimates—check your local frost schedule for the most accurate timing.
Final Thoughts
Hollyhocks are proof that dramatic beauty doesn’t have to mean high effort. A little sun, a bit of space, and some basic care are all it takes to grow something spectacular. They’re forgiving, generous bloomers, and once you get them going, they’ll often reward you year after year.
So, whether you want a splash of color by your back fence or a full-on cottage garden experience, give hollyhocks a try. They’re a bit wild, a bit nostalgic, and absolutely unforgettable.
