Rhubarb Winter Care – Mulching And Spring Cleanup For Strong Crowns

Rhubarb plants become dormant during winter to conserve energy, so proper winter care must include protecting them from cold weather as well as diseases that could potentially impact their crowns and leaves.

Organic mulch helps control weeds while also conserving moisture. In milder zones, forcing rhubarb harvest for midwinter can be achieved by covering its crowns with a large container such as a bucket or dustbin with holes blocked out – requiring patience but potentially reaping rewards!

1. Remove Dead Foliage

Colder climates make rhubarb less vulnerable to diseases that threaten more delicate crops, but protection remains critical. Basic measures include harvesting flower stalks as soon as they appear and removing any that appear early to avoid seed production which deprives plants of vitality and may lead to disease, as well as mulching with manure or well-rotted leaf mold.

Mulching rhubarb with 3-4 inch layer of straw or compost after the ground freezes helps control weeds, while leaving crowns open to sunlight and air for optimal spring growth. In addition, dead leaves should be removed at this point since their toxin oxalic acid enters stalks through them and becomes inedible; doing this also decreases chances of fungal infection like Ascochyta leaf spot or Phytophthora crown rot. Taking these simple steps ensures a strong crop next spring!

2. Mulch

Rhubarb is an intensive feeder and needs ample nutrients in order to produce tall stalks. Mulching around its clumps with straw or composted manure will keep the soil cool, retain moisture and protect against weed growth.

Idealy, mulch should cover the entire planting site. However, too close proximity between mulch and crown may cause it to rot over time.

Rhubarb is an exceptionally easy crop to cultivate under ideal growing conditions, with few diseases and pests to worry about. If rhubarb plants become affected by Verticillium wilt due to wet or shaded soil conditions, however, replanting may be necessary in a different location if affected – this disease caused by damp conditions can cause leaves to wither away, stunted growth, and ultimately plant death – this makes overcrowding important in order to keep rhubarb plants alive!

3. Weed

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) goes dormant during winter in order to conserve energy, yet it’s easy to protect this perennial crop and promote growth by taking just a few simple steps such as trimming back dead foliage, applying mulch, and protecting from weeds. With these strategies in place, your plants should emerge unscathed from dormancy without damage or stress.

Garden rhubarb is typically grown during the cool season, so mulching it with straw, shredded leaves or compost will help to retain moisture while keeping soil temperatures down and suppressing weeds and plant diseases at bay. Be careful to place the mulch around its base instead of touching its crown to avoid overheating the ground and potentially harming its roots.

For optimal results, grow rhubarb from established crowns in your garden; however, if there’s not enough space this year to do that then try starting seedlings instead – sowing these in late spring or early summer will result in harvests three years down the line!

4. Divide

Overcrowded rhubarb clumps may benefit from being divided, which involves digging up old plant material and replanting in smaller sections. Aim to divide mature rhubarb clumps every five years for best results.

Care should be taken when excavating a clump to reveal all roots without cutting into them, and digging should occur either during fall or spring, when rhubarb is dormant and less likely to produce strong shoots that would make transplanting difficult.

These transplants should be planted in full sun, deep soil with plenty of organic matter, with plenty of water and ample sunlight. Add high-nitrogen fertilizer when planting and mulch thickly afterwards for protection, insulation, and feeding new plants as they establish food reserves themselves. Aim for two feet between transplanted rhizomes so each has enough space to grow and flourish – don’t include old leaves as these contain large quantities of oxalic acid that could prove toxic to animals!