Soil For Roses – How to Prepare the Best Soil For Roses

Roses need well-prepared soil to grow to their full potential. If they don’t get the right mix, they can quickly become stressed.

They need a good amount of organic matter, a slightly acidic soil pH, and plenty of sunlight. In addition, they need a lot of mulch that will suppress weeds and retain moisture.

Loam

Roses are heavy feeders and prefer a well-draining soil. Their long ‘tap’ root system means they penetrate deeply so it is best to avoid sites where their roots will compete with nearby trees and shrubs for nutrients and water.

A good rose soil should be loamy – contain the three particle sizes (clay, sand and silt) in relatively equal proportions – this makes for soil that is easily worked but holds onto moisture and allows air and nutrient circulation. It’s easy to check your soil type by grabbing a handful and squeezing it. Good soil will crumble not clump and will hold its shape, it won’t slide off your hand (too sandy) or hold together like a brick (too clay).

If your garden soil is not loamy, mix in one-third grit when backfilling to improve drainage. Make sure your soil is weed free and is rich in organic matter (e.g. well rotted manure or compost). Avoid fertilising at the time of planting; this can change the soil pH and burn new roots.

Most types of roses thrive in a typical garden soil with a pH of 6.5. If your soil lies outside this range it may be necessary to amend the soil before planting (see below). A simple home soil testing kit can help you determine if your garden needs work. If your soil is acidic, you will need to add garden lime or mushroom compost to redress the balance. If it is alkaline, use a product such as iron chelates or powdered sulphur to reduce the pH.

Clay

Ideally, roses like a loose, deep soil that is well-drained. But they can grow in almost any soil type, given it is not too alkaline and full of humus or organic matter. The soil pH should be slightly acidic (6.0 to 7.0) or neutral. Soil with a high concentration of clay particles packs tightly together, making it heavy and dense. In contrast, sand is gritty and silt is fine and slippery. Soil with a combination of these particles is called loam.

If the native soil in a planting hole or rose bed is clay, add peat moss or compost to loosen it up and improve its structure. A layer of partially decomposed barnyard manure spread over a rose bed each year is another good way to condition the soil and increase its water-holding capacity.

Most landscaping sites in Central Oregon have been disturbed by construction activities, greatly reducing the naturally occurring mycorrhizae that normally grow around the roots of plants and enhances water uptake, nutrient uptake, root growth, and reduces drought stress. If you want to give your roses a head start, sprinkle mycorrhizae in the holes for bareroot plants or on top of existing roses before mulching them.

Avoid over fertilizing a newly planted rose or an established one during its dormant period, which can burn the plant and change the soil pH. Wait until the first application of fertilizer during bud break in the spring.

Sandy

Generally speaking, roses can thrive in all types of soil. However, light, sandy soils are less ideal as they have trouble retaining water and nutrients. Amending these soils is important to improve their structure and water-holding abilities.

The addition of organic matter is essential for all soil types. The process of decomposition breaks down organic material into nutrient elements that plants can absorb. A great choice is well rotted manure (cluck cluck or mooooo!) and/or garden compost. Avoid manures that contain meat or bone meal, as these are too acidic for roses.

If your sandy soil needs further conditioning, try mixing it with 50% native soil and 50% well rotted manure or compost. This is an easy way to amend and condition the soil.

When replanting a rose, make sure that the hole is big enough. If the hole is too small, the new root system will be crowded and the plant will struggle to establish itself. Dig a hole about two feet wide and deep and build a cone in the bottom of the hole to help the roots spread out.

If you are planting a bare root rose, remove the rose from its biodegradable box and carefully dig around the bud union. When you are satisfied that the soil block is at the correct planting depth, carefully replant the rose. After replanting, lightly work in 2″ to 3″ of our Organic & Natural Planting Soil for Roses & Flowers to help ensure a healthy permanent bed.

Alkaline

Roses grow best in a nutrient-rich soil with an ideal pH level of slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0). A pH above 7 will prevent the roots from absorbing nutrients and lower the plants’ resistance to disease and pests.

To ensure your soil is well-balanced, make your own garden mix by blending 50% native soil with 50% organic matter like composted manure and/or worm castings. The humus in the compost will slow-release nutrient, and the earthworms will help aerate the mix for optimal performance. Mix thoroughly to ensure each ‘ingredient’ is evenly distributed, then test your mix’s pH level. This can be done by sending a sample to a lab or using a home kit. To get your mix to the right pH, add sulfur if your mix is too acidic and lime if it’s too alkaline.

When you’re ready to plant your roses, dig holes as deep as the root ball and one spade’s width wide, if possible. This will give the long ‘tap’ root system the space it needs to settle in. Backfill with the garden mix, and consider mixing in one-third coarse grit when replanting to improve drainage.

Remember, amending your soil’s pH is a marathon, not a sprint. It will take time for the new material to become fully incorporated and begin acting as the roses’ best home. So be patient and amend your soil on a regular basis.